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Page 79: Tom Price
and Karijini National Park |
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Tom Price is another town which owes its existence to
an iron ore mine. This mine, and smaller satellite mines in the region,
now belong to Rio Tinto.
The town took its name from Mount Tom Price, a source of very high grade
iron ore. The mountain was named after Thomas Moore Price (1891 - 1962).
Tom was an American (but a good bloke never-the-less) who assisted Lang
Hancock to survey the Hamersley Range from Lang's aircraft, landing frequently
for a closer look.
Now here's the twist; Tom didn't discover Mount Tom Price, nor was he
the one who discovered iron ore in the Hamersley Range of mountains. Tom
didn't develop a mine, either. What he did achieve was, in some
ways, more sensational. Tom was a man of unbounding energy and enthusiasm,
a veritable human dynamo. He might not have moved a mountain but he did
shift a government.
At this time the State Government of Western Australia was doing what
politicians do best - prevaricating. Was the proposed site in the
Hamersley Ranges sufficiently rich in iron? Was there enough of it? Was
the sulphur content too high? Could they justify spending money to develop,
not just a mine in that remote region, but port facilities at Dampier
and a railway linking the two? Lang Hancock believed it was worth developing
but was unable to convince the Government. Then along came Tom Price,
fresh from surveying the region and bubbling over with enthusiasm. He
completely sold Premiere Brand and his cabinet on the concept; he moved
a government and changed Western Australian history more than even he
could have imagined. Then he went home to America.
Back home, Tom was taken ill and his illness was followed by a serious
infection which frustrated him unendurably. News had come through about
an even richer ore body close to the original site, a whole mountain of
it. He couldn't wait to return to Western Australia. Ignoring his wife's
pleas he returned to work at Kaiser Steel while still running a high fever.
Within hours he was found dead at his desk. However, his input had started
the ball rolling. The new find was named Mount Tom Price in his honour.
Later the town, which developed to service the new mine, adopted the same
name.
Tom died too soon to benefit financially from the mine but Lang Hancock
became extremely rich. As every Aussie knows, his wealth didn't buy him
much happiness. His wife died and he married his Filipino housekeeper,
Rose. The marriage fascinated the press, Lang being considerably older
than Rose. Lang fell ill and Rose moved him out of his luxurious mansion
in Perth's most affluent suburb and into a small lodge near the gate.
As it became clear old Lang was not long for this world, a vicious and
very public battle broke out between Rose and Lang's daughter, Gina, both
striving for as much of Lang's estate as they could lay their hands on.
God knows, there was more than enough for both and poor Lang was almost
forgotten in the fray.
So there you have it. A very abbreviated history of the origin of Tom
Price, the town. Tom Price, the man, did, in one respect, move a mountain.
As a direct result of his input much of Mount Tom Price went to Japan.
Some came back in the form of Toyotas, Mitsubishis, Nissans and others.
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This picture was taken from a look-out over the
town of Tom Price, however looking away from
the town we can see a maintenance truck on the railway (left), a car and
caravan passing along the
road (right) and the dark mass of Mount Nameless looming over the town. |
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Dominating the Tom Price skyline is Mount Nameless. How
did a mountain come to be called Nameless? The story I heard is that Japanese
visitors to the mine were taken to the summit of the mountain which offered
sensational views over the mine, the town and the surrounding landscape.
On asking the name of this mountain the Japanese were told, "It's
nameless."
"Ah, Mount Nameless," replied the enquirer. And so it became
from that moment forth.
Some Aborigines are very upset about this name. They'd already had a name
for the mountain for thousands of years, they said. Their name is about
twenty letters long and is unpronounceable. They had their way in changing
Ayers Rock to Uluru; let's stay with Nameless.
We drove to the top of Mount Nameless (4WD only) not once, but twice.
We didn't have the camera the first time, it was a spontaneous act so
that my darling wife and I could stand on the highest point in the area
and watch the sun set together. Who says I'm not romantic? And my reward?
I drove too fast on the dirt road. She froze in terror because I drove
too near a few steep drops. It was too cold to get out of the car and
look at the view. Well . . . I tried.
The second time we went earlier when it was warmer and I drove up the
mountain very slowly and stayed away from edges. Too little too late.
But THIS time I took the camera . . . |
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| Left: The
landscape with no human intervention.
Right: The crater that
remains after Mt. Tom Price went to Japan. |
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| Left: The
town of Tom Price from the summit of Mount Nameless.
Right: The Tom Price Caravan Park (centre). Beautiful
country. |
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We rather liked Tom Price. It had just the one service
station which didn't take advantage of its monopoly by inflating its pump
prices. We pulled in to fill up the day before we planned to leave and
found all the diesel pumps out of action; the service station had run
out of diesel. Therefore the town was out of diesel. The next service
station was at Paraburdoo, eighty kilometres away. We didn't care, we
had fuel enough to reach Paraburdoo and some to spare - assuming Paraburdoo
had diesel. There isn't a caravan park there.
As it transpired, on returning to the caravan we discovered that water
was dripping from the front left corner. Investigation revealed that the
water heater was leaking. Said investigation demanded that one remove
a panel then lie on the floor with one's head and one extended arm in
the lower section of a small cupboard with a torch. Such uncomfortable
contortions revealed water leaking from the lower input pipe connection.
Or was it? Since the heater was enclosed in a polystyrene jacket, the
leak could have originated anywhere, the water filling the jacket until
it flowed out from the lowest escape point which was where the input pipe
connected. Ho-hum. Buy a Jayco, folks, you'll never be bored.
Okay, first we had to eliminate the connection as the culprit. To remove
that the hot water tank had to be drained. The only external drain point
was accessed by removing the sacrificial anode which should be replaced
at regular intervals - but which I had conveniently overlooked, probably
in common with 95% of caravan owners. Anyway, there wasn't anything left
of the anode but white sludge in the bottom of the tank.
But that's enough doom and gloom. Let's take a break and go and see the
Karijini National Park. |
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We decided to take the plunge and booked an organised tour
of the Karijini Park. When our bus hit the corrugated dirt road we were
s-o-o-o glad we hadn't driven in. We hadn't gone far when some
total idiot towing a camper trailer came the other way at a ridiculous speed,
churning up a dense cloud of choking, brown dust and scattering stones.
He made no attempt to slow down as he approached the bus, leaving our driver
unable to see anything ahead. Stones thrown up as he passed rattled against
the bus, one hitting the windscreen and chipping it. Our poor driver was
most upset; it was a brand new windscreen that had been fitted less than
24 hours earlier.
Barring that one incident it was a wonderful day. |
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This, our guide told us, is fossilised dinosaur
dung. Would a tour guide lie? |
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2,500 millions years ago the whole of Karijini National Park
had been under the ocean, then all sorts of mayhem broke loose. Continental
shelves collided, earthquakes erupted and one way or another Karijini was
not a good place to be. The sea bed rock was forced upwards with tremendous
force causing it to buckle and form numerous vertical fractures. As it finished
up above the sea, the usual processes of erosion began and the fissures
were were gradually opened up by water and wind. As a consequence Karijini,
as we see it today, is riddled with deep and spectacular gorges. |
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Oxer Gorge from one of the viewing platforms. |
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A
female English tourist, against all advice, decided to climb down into
the gorge. She fell and was seriously injured. Helicopters can't be used
in gorge rescues because of the very real danger of precariously balanced
rocks being dislodged by the beat and down draught from the rotor
blades and causing further injury. A rescue team consisting of three volunteers
descended into the gorge and secured the woman to a litter on which she
was hauled up. Before the rescue team could could be brought up a three
metre wall of water came rushing down the gorge from a storm some distance
away. Two of the rescuers miraculously escaped but one, Jimmy Regan, was
killed.
A memorial to Jimmy Regan from his family stands
above the spot where he died.
The woman was treated in hospital for her injuries then returned to England
to continue her life.
As we drove along our guide told us about an old dingo (Australian native
wild dog) which had wised up to the fact that she didn't need to hunt
for food. If she hung around the picnic spots in the park the tourists
would be enchanted and throw her food. She had been christened Doris by
the park rangers. Our guide told us there was a good chance we would see
her. As we approached the picnic area, there she was. She was very wary
and would not approach humans but skulked around the periphery of a group
and look nervous.
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Doris the wily Dingo. |
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We descended into two of the gorges via rough steps cut into
the rock or partly formed from concrete. The steps appeared to have been
cut by men with legs twice the length of poor Pam's and she really struggled
at times. Occasionally she would accept help, but mostly she was determined
to manage alone. |
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Our group at the bottom of one gorge. Note the variation
in the colour of the rock. And where's Pam? |
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There she is at the other side of the creek, catching
her breath. |
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Fern Pool was what our guide called "the jewel
in the crown". |
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Three of our party - all women - swam in Fern Pool. What
does this prove? Absolutely nothing. They wanted to swim, the rest of
us didn't.
There just isn't room to show you all the stunning sights we saw in Karijini
National Park. Our guide was one of the best; witty, knowledgeable and
a good driver. He allowed everyone to go at their own pace and was kind
and considerate.
On the way home we just got caught at a level crossing by an empty ore
train which meant a long wait. At one point we could see the ore cars
stretching from one horizon to the other. We prayed the train wouldn't
stop. It didn't.
With the heater tank drained I removed the input pipe and found the sealing
washer was a write-off. A rubber 'O' ring designed for a garden hose connector
did the trick. I reassembled everything, filled the tank and pressurised
it. Now both the inlet and the outlet pipe leaked. Tomorrow I'll
go the hardware and try and find replacement fittings.
Huh! What a joke. They had nothing.
We asked the Tourist Information office for help. We were pointed at a
small backstreet business. The gentleman there, Simon, didn't have what
we needed but promised to get everything by midday tomorrow. Wonderful!
It means another day without water and a delayed departure but . . . hey,
so what! |
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There's always two sides to everything. Some people
regarded the back of the sign as fair game. |
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As agreed, I returned to see if Simon had managed to get
me the parts I needed overnight. Simon had gone to a meeting in Karratha
- no parts had arrived. We decided to try Plan B which was to persuade the
original fittings that it would be a good idea to work properly. Swapping
a couple of perished 'O' rings for new ones (again intended for a garden
hose connector) we achieved some success. Both connections were now water-tight.
However, water was seeping from under the water tank's insulation jacket.
Was there still a leak or was it water trapped there after the tank had
been drained? If so, it would dry up on its own. If not, there was still
a leak somewhere and the whole water heater would have to come out. What
fun. |
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